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When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.